Swirl in the Mold Part 2

After a few days, I had finally managed to get the soap out of the mold.  I had to put the mold in the freezer for a several hours and then let them thawed, before they would release from the mold.

I did some drawing to go with the how to in the previous post and hope this will make it easier to follow.

1.  Pour the soap in thin line over the base, diagonally all across the mold.  Try not to over the colors.

2.  Then use chopstick to make the swirl by dragging it across the soap, make sure that it goes all the way to the bottom.

Thank you for reading.

Swirl in the Mold Part 1

This is the most basic of all the swirls on soap.  It is likely the first attempt a new soaper would try to do, I tried this method first, too.  It is quite easy to achieve a good outcome as you can see what the result will look like.  As with other swirl in the mold methods, this is done at light trace.

All you have to do is to divide the base soap into 3 parts; 2 parts will be used as base, and another part to be  mixed with the colors for the swirl.  In this batch, I misjudged the soap and ended with 2 parts only, so the swirl pattern was quite heavy.  The main batch was left white, while the rest was divided into three parts to be mixed to make - blue, black, and purple soap.

1. Pour all the base into the mold. 
2. Then pour a line of colored soap onto this.  I did a diagonal pattern all across the soap, one color at a time and tried not to overlap them.  And since I had too much colored soap, I repeated the process in the opposite direction.  
3. Then drag a chopstick through the soap, once horizontally, once vertically and and once more diagonally.  

This is how it ends up.

Enjoy soaping!

(Some drawings in Part 2)

Mantra Swirl

Making soap is quite unpredictable.  You can hope for the finished look, but until it is cut you can never be sure.

Mantra swirl is also known as the secret swirl.  As its name suggested, the swirl is a secret until it is cut.  First you have to divide the mold into two parts to hold two colors.  Then you pour another color down the middle and to create the swirl using a coat hanger method.  How deeply this last part of soap will go depends on the trace stage of the soap, the lighter the better.

I had never used this fragrance oil before, I guess it accelerated trace a little bit, because there were tiny bubble rising while I poured the last part of the soap.  

A lesson learned, test your fragrance oil.

Let's Start Soaping!

Making soap is not difficult and very gratifying.  There are lots and lots of sites that you can search for info about how to make soap.  Here are a few good ones that have great tutorials:

- millersoap.com
- www.teachsoap.com
- candleandsoap.about.com

Also try Soap-Queen blog.

Basically making soap is combining oil with the right amount of lye solution.  And yes, in making handmade soap, we do use lye.  Lye is a dangerous substance, but if you do it correctly, all will be neutralized by the end of the process.

So before jumping into making soap, take time to obtain as much information as you can.  Safety is a big issue in making soap, always wear your goggles and protective clothing.  Don't take chances.

Let the fun begins.

Solid Perfume

Some more fragrance oils have arrived and they smell really good.  At first I wanted to make perfume oil, but I could not find the recipe that was simple enough for me.  Instead I stumbled upon a recipe for solid perfume which looked very simple and more important I had all the require materials.  

I never made any type of perfume, so this is the first try.  I found this recipe from Snowdrift Farm but had modified it a little bit.

Ingredients
Beeswax 5 grams
Carnauba wax 4 grams
Fractionated Coconut Oil 50 grams
Mango Butter 5 grams
Vitamin E 0.6 gram
Fragrance Oil  12 grams

This makes about six tins.

As I used natural beeswax, I had to grate it to make it easier to melt.  Then I melt the waxes, oil and butter in a double boiler.  After everything melted, removed from heat and added vit. E and stirred.  Then I filled one tin at a time with 10 grams of oil and then added 2 grams of fragrance oils to each, gave it another stir.  Did the same with the rest.  Then let them rest and that's it .

Isn't this easy?

Fragrance Oils Testing

Wish I could make soap in these colors.  I had this rose bloomed the day before yesterday in my garden, just love it.


I have quite a few fragrance oils that I have not yet tried and would like to know how they behave.  So I decided to do the testing by making a batch of soap and split it into 10 molds to try each fragrance.  In order to see how they would discolor, I used white base.

As you can see, I had difficulties unmolding these soaps, lol.  These are kept for nearly a month now.  The colors varied in very interesting shades.  All these fragrances are from Daystar.

Nectar's Blush - nice & strong, slight acceleration.

Pure Intention - subtle, but fresh, floral scent, a bit of acceleration.

Frosted Indulgence - sweet vanilla fragrance, no acceleration noted, but discolored to very dark brown.

Lea - vanilla type of fragrance, lost some note when soaped, lovelier in lotion.

Bamboo Sugar Cane - strong, this scent grows on me.

Liquid Crack - strong, not sure I like it but lots of other people do.

Magnolia Acai - nice floral, very subtle, acceleration noted.

Private Bloom - this one fades right out, noticed some clumping.

Peacefully Mango Breeze - didn't like it OOB, but smells better once soaped, fresh, strong fragrance. 

Green Tea & Ginger - nice & strong.

That was fun, but I had to work quickly especially toward the end.  May be next time I will try with less fragrance oils.

Thank you for reading, comments would be welcome.

DBHP Continues

Still I am making more DBHP.  It's quite fun and fast to see the result and to try out new soap recipe.  The only problem with this is, the soap I made last week is still quite soft after a week of curing.  Maybe part of the problem is the high humidity we are having at the moment.

Anyway here are two more batches, both of these, I did more water discount than the last two.  The first one was with 27% lye solution, and the second one was with 28% lye solution.  At the end of cook, the fluidity was still good.  Though admittedly, these two did not turn out as planned.

I wanted to make hard, dry soap with less cure time, so I pushed beyond the 35% water rule with my last one.  At the end of cook, the soap was quite dry.  I was able to mold it but barely and texture does not look good.  

So I guess with soap, the best we can do is to be patience.